The Real Cost of 'Cheap' Printing: A Procurement Manager’s FAQ on Komori & Beyond

1. Is a used Komori Lithrone really a good buy, or am I just buying someone else’s problem?

Good question. The conventional wisdom is that a well-maintained used Komori Lithrone is a steal—they’re built like tanks. My experience suggests otherwise, at least if you’re not careful.

Back in 2022, I audited our 2021 spending and found we’d sunk $4,200 into repairs on a press we bought “as-is” for $18,000. The seller claimed it had been “lightly used.” Could have been true. But the cost of replacement parts (we’re talking Komori printing press parts here) had gone through the roof post-pandemic. A single circuit board—whopping $1,200. If I were doing it again, I’d add a clause in the contract for a 30-day parts warranty or budget 20% of the purchase price for immediate repairs.

For reference: a good-condition used Komori Lithrone S40 (10+ years old) typically runs $30k–$60k. A newer one? $100k+. The hidden cost isn’t the press; it’s the parts and a technician who knows how to fix it.

2. Where do you even find Komori printing press parts without getting ripped off?

(Note to self: this is the thing that keeps me up at night.)

I’ve bought from three sources: the OEM (Komori direct), specialized dealers like Graphica or KBA, and eBay. The price spread is insane. OEM rollers might be $800 each. An aftermarket set from a certified rebuilder? $450. A “like new” set on eBay for $200. I almost went with eBay until I remembered the lesson from 2023: a misfed sheet can wreck your whole shift. For safety-critical parts (rollers, grippers, circuit boards), I now use OEM or a dealer with a clear returns policy. For bushings, gears, or generic parts, the aftermarket is often fine.

Oh, and one more thing: budget for shipping. A heavy roller can cost $75 to ship. I’ve seen a $150 part become a $250 part after shipping and tax. Total cost, not unit price.

3. I keep hearing about ‘printer scanner copier’ combos for small shops. Are they worth it?

Depends on what you’re printing. If you’re doing 50-page proposals and basic color copies, a solid printer scanner copier (like a Canon imageRUNNER or a used Konica Minolta bizhub) is a godsend. If you’re trying to run 10,000 4-color brochures—no. The per-page cost on a copier is usually higher (5-8 cents vs. 2-3 cents on a press), and the maintenance contracts can be brutal. I analyzed a $4,200 annual contract for a mid-range copier: we paid $350 a month for a base coverage that didn’t include the fuser unit. That replacement cost $450 extra. The ‘cheap’ option cost us $1,200 more over a year than if we’d just paid for a higher-tier plan upfront.

Dodged a bullet when I renegotiated that contract (circa 2023). It’s a good workhorse, but don’t try to make it a production press.

4. 3D printer maintenance: is it as bad as everyone says?

It can be. The trigger event for me was in 2023 when a $3,000 3D printer went down mid-job. The print head jammed. The manufacturer’s repair quote was $850 plus shipping. I found a third-party repair kit for $120. Did the fix myself—took 4 hours and a lot of YouTube. (Should mention: I’m not a tech. I’m a procurement guy with a screwdriver.)

The real cost isn’t the parts; it’s the downtime. If you’re running a shop where a 3D printer is a profit center, budget for a backup unit or a service contract. I’ve seen shops with two units: one is always running, the other is maintenance.

5. DTF printer vs. sublimation printer: which one will cost me less in the long run?

This is a classic TCO question. I compared quotes for a small apparel run (500 shirts) in Q2 2024. Here’s the breakdown:

• Sublimation: Works only on polyester. Equipment cost $6k–$12k for a decent unit. Ink is $50–$80 per liter. Paper is cheap. But the learning curve is steep—color consistency is a pain.
• DTF (Direct-to-Film): Works on cotton, poly, blends. Printer is $3k–$8k. Film + powder + ink is $1.50–$2.50 per sheet. Easy to use.

My experience: DTF is easier to outsource to a trade shop if you’re small. The film prep is straightforward. Sublimation is cheaper per shirt if you have the volume. For a shop doing 100-200 shirts a month, DTF won out on cost because we didn’t have to buy a heat press for every substrate. For a shop doing 1,000+ monthly, sublimation is the winner on margin.

Should note: DTF film has a shelf life of about 12 months. If you order a pallet and don’t use it, that’s a hidden cost.

6. Is a maintenance contract ever worth it for a used press?

The time pressure decision here: I had 2 hours to decide before a vendor’s deadline. My normal process is to get three quotes. No time. Went with a mid-range contract from a local dealer based on trust.

In hindsight, I should have pushed back. The contract was $1,800/year and covered labor only. The parts cost us $600 extra in year one. But when a roller seized up on a Friday before a Monday deadline, they were on-site in 4 hours. That’s the value of certainty. For a used Komori, I’d say a contract is worth it if:

• You don’t have in-house tech expertise
• Your press is over 10 years old
• Your downtime cost is > $500/hour

If none of these apply, self-insure. Save the $1,800/year and hope for the best.

7. What’s the one thing I should have known before buying any printing equipment?

(Mental note: this is the lesson that stuck.)

Everything I’d read said to always get the best machine you can afford. My experience suggests that’s half true. The total cost of ownership includes the space for the machine, the power draw, the replacement parts, and the training time for your staff. A $60,000 used Komori Lithrone is a great machine if you have a $10,000 a month workstream for it. If you’re doing $2,000 a month in volume, a $15,000 machine—even a 3D printer or a mid-range DTF setup—might be more profitable. The ‘cheap’ option (low volume) is sometimes the smarter one.