6 Things I Check Before Buying Any Used Komori Offset Press (A Rush Order Veteran’s Checklist)

Who Is This Checklist For?

If you’re responsible for bringing a used Komori offset printing machine into your shop—whether you’re a shop owner, production manager, or senior press technician—this is for you. And if your deadline is tight, like it usually is for us, you can't afford to get this wrong.

In my role coordinating production for a mid-sized commercial printer, I’ve handled 40+ press acquisitions in the last six years, including three that were emergency replacements after a press went down mid-run. Let me be real with you: the 12-point checklist I created after my third mistake has saved us an estimated $8,000 in potential rework and unscheduled downtime.

Here’s the thing: buying a secondhand press is a way better bet than it sounds—if you know what to look for. This checklist covers 6 steps, and Step 4 is the one most buyers skip.

Step 1: Verify the Komori Press Model and Year (Don’t Trust the Listing Alone)

I’ve seen listing photos that were clearly from a different press. Seriously. The model number and year are stamped on the machine’s main frame—not just on a plate that can be swapped.

Check point: Cross-reference the serial number with Komori’s support team or an authorized dealer. In March 2024, I wasted three days negotiating on a “2018 Lithrone 40” that turned out to be a 2014. The price difference was way bigger than I expected: the 2014 was worth about 30% less. (Source: industry valuation data from multiple broker quotes, Q1 2025; verify current pricing.)

Step 2: Request the Press’s “Service History” (Not Just the Meter Reading)

Meter hours tell you how much the press has run, but they don’t tell you how well it was maintained. A press with 40 million impressions that had regular OEM servicing can be in better shape than one with 20 million that was neglected.

What to ask for: Logs of oil changes, roller replacements, blanket changes, and any emergency repairs. A seller who can’t or won’t provide this? I’d walk away. From our internal data on 40+ inspected presses, machines with full service records had 60% fewer issues in the first year.

Step 3: Test the KHS (Komori Hyper System) – It’s Your Speed Advantage

Komori’s KHS system is one of the main reasons buyers choose a Komori press. It’s supposed to give faster start-ups and less waste. But it only works if it’s properly calibrated.

Check point: Run a short job—say 500 sheets—and measure the time from start-up to acceptable quality. If it takes more than 10 minutes to get good sheets, the KHS system might need recalibration or part replacement. One of my worst purchases cost us $2,000 in extra waste before we discovered the KHS unit was faulty.

Step 4: Inspect the Delivery Chain and Gripper System (The Overlooked One)

Most buyers check the print unit and ink rollers. They forget to check the delivery end—the grippers and chains. If a gripper is misaligned, you’ll get misregister and marking on every sheet. It’s a super expensive fix.

I had a colleague who bought a used Komori press that had a gripper problem. The seller swore it was “just a tweak.” That tweak turned into a $3,500 parts replacement and three days of downtime. The buyer missed a $12,000 project because of it.

What to do: Run a blank sheet through. If the gripper marks are uneven or the sheet is skewed, that’s a red flag. Check the chain tension while you’re at it.

Step 5: Verify Spare Parts Availability for That Specific Model

Komori has a ton of spare parts available, but not all parts are stocked forever for every model. Before you buy, call a Komori parts distributor or check their online catalog. I once spent two months tracking down a main drive motor for a 2003 Lithrone 40—and we had to pay rush fees and air freight from Japan.

Fast check: Ask the seller for the top 10 critical part numbers (cylinders, rollers, sensors). Then call a parts supplier and ask: “Are these in stock?” If they say no, ask for a lead time. More than 2 weeks for a key consumable? That could be a dealbreaker.

Step 6: Calculate the Real Total Cost, Including Rigging and Installation

Buying a used press isn’t just the purchase price. The rigging, shipping, installation, and commissioning can add 20-30% to the total cost. Plus, you may need to reinforce your floor or upgrade electrical.

I have mixed feelings about how some brokering sites present pricing—they show the machine price, but then you discover hidden fees. Part of me wants to believe in transparency, another part knows that the industry isn’t there yet. My way: budget an extra 20% on top of the asking price for rigging and initial setup. It saved me a ton of headaches.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Buying based on price alone. It’s tempting to think the cheapest press is the best deal—but total cost can be higher if you need rework or emergency parts. 5 minutes of verification beats 5 days of correction.

Skipping a pre-purchase inspection. If the seller won’t allow an independent inspection, walk away. This isn’t negotiable.

Not checking how much power a 3D printer uses (yes, I’m serious). Some shops have shared electrical lines, and if you’re adding a large press alongside a 3D printer, the combined load can trip circuits. Know your shop’s power capacity before the press arrives.

Bottom line: a used Komori press can be a fantastic investment. But the difference between a profitable acquisition and a costly mistake comes down to the details you check before you sign.